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359 Spadina Ave. The dingy Spadina-strip exterior and chintzy, overdone entrance disguise an elegant venue. Vaguely Chinese-Vietnamese decor is unpretentious and restrained in a black-white motif. Subdued halogen lighting, long area and well-spaced tables engender a convincing illusion of club-like privacy, but insipid Canto-pop pervades the atmosphere and throws the mood. Viet "haut-cuisine" menu is intimidatingly vast with a wide range of budget-conscious serving sizes. An unsubtle french influence flows throughout, blending comfortably with Indochine regulars, but the pronounced (albeit segregated) Cantonese influence inexorably distracts. Chinese entries include predictable but varied congee and noodle entries. Long but uncomprehensive separate vegetarian collection dissapoints with unforgivingly Chinese fried rice-noodle fare, though portions are large for the price. They have a specialty fish when the season is right. Must-have meaty spring rolls are well-fried, but the tasteless beef must be carried by the light vinegared sauces. Shrimp on sugarcane and jellyfish papaya salad are intriguing. The drowned, oppressive hot and sour soup is excessively glutinous and oil-heavy, even for Spadina, but ultra-light noodle vien dong soup stirs the appetite. The missable sizzling grilled fillet of (nameless) fish is alarmingly texture- and flavour-free. Fried frog legs in garlic butter are delightfully crisp; the meat is succulent without the usual everpresent amphibian aftertaste. The special mint-wrapped beef, served cold, is an outrageous bargain. Customer-prepared translucent spring rolls combine the minty beef, sliced vermicelli and heaping platters of veggies; fresh sliced avocadoes, bean sprouts, cucumber and pickled radish. A colourful effect complements the freshness. The beef itself is moist but flabby. The obviously bottled peanut sauce overpowers tantalizing hints of minty lemongrass. The jackfruit "shakes" are irresistibly refreshing. Fruity iced deserts run from lychee through jack fruit and on into rambutan, lightly cheery after a heavy meal. Well-priced standard wines, though few decent whites beyond Ernest and Julio. Cellar isvery poorly stocked. Chinatown-quick service, appropriately attentive, lack of English goes with the territory. Good for out-of-town guests unfamiliar with Viet-Chinese cuisine. Free parking at rear with refundable deposit. $80. |